Braking System

We were intrigued when we found a couple of cable ties in the kit of hex rubbers for the brake master cylinder. It transpires that these are to help hold the brake fluid reservoir onto the master cylinder and prevent leaks at the join. Apparently the racers have been doing this for years so if you have just taken the reservoir off for some reason remember to use a couple of ties to help seal it back in.

Fuel System

when you replace the fuel pump on your 2CV the pipe between the pump and the carb intake can run very close (and might even touch) the exhaust manifold. Aftermarket pumps seem worse for this than the genuine ones. Very dangerous (obviously) - use a cable tie to pull the pipe towards the front of the car, well away from the exhaust.

Ignition Coil by Darryl Urcheck

I have been called upon often to fix a 2CV that seemed to have no spark. In several instances I found that corrosion built up on leads at the coil, or that the coil wire had simply worked loose but still appeared to be attached. Clean and make certain that coil connections are tight before calling someone to fix the car. The 2CV is a very sound animal, but when stored for a month or more, a few minor things can prevent it from running well.

Storage by Darryl Urcheck

When pulling a 2CV out of winter storage, first chgange the oil and filter (if so equipped), then remove the plugs, squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand, then by the starter, a few times to build oil pressure. Repalce the plugs, prime the carburetor and start the car at a slightly increased idle but DO NOT RACE THE ENGINE. This will clear the excess oil from the system, but ensure that oil has reached the cylinder heads and all key lubrication points. Then let the vehicle warm up. 2CVs tend to run cold, especially the earlier ones (pre-1972), so a good warm up is essential when pulling the vehicle out of storage.

Storage 2 by Darryl Urcheck

When starting a vehicle which has sat for a long time, open the fuel tank and sniff briefly. If the gas has appeared to turn bad, do not be too concerned unless the gas has sat more than a year. The lower-compression 2CVs can burn this gas, with a little help from a mix of fresh gas and gas de-icer (ethanol which absorbs the water). The first tank, when emptied, may smell like lacquer, but it can be burned, if draining the tank is not an option. Some people suggest using gas stabilkizer, but they tend not to mix it before adding or assume that it soilves all problems. I fixed a nonm-starter that had been sitting 8 years buy draining, then removing and cleaning the tank. The stabilizer was caught on the bottom like a gel and had not mixed. After draining, I removed the tank, steamed it out (it had no rust, miraculously!)dried it using warm air from a non-electric drying system that kept a steady 80 degrees Fahrenheit temp for three hours blowing into the tank, then replaced it. I then proceeded to do other things to the system before starting it. The moral: the best way to handle this issue is toi start the car monthly, even if in storage, and change the oil immediately after removal from storage,

Fuel filter by Darryl Urcheck

Early 2CVs use the same gas filter in the tank as the Traction: a set of brass washers which act to keep particles out of the fuel system. This was state of the art in the 1930s but not now. If you prefer to keep this unit, just soak it in lacquer thinner. You need not even disassemble it to clean, but a day long soak in a closed glass container is a must. I usually suggest that people replace this with a small tube to reach to the bottom of the tank, then install either the large plastic transparent Toyota filter near the intake side of the fuel pump. Or you can spend about 12.00 US and get the JCP filter that is made of glass, shows fuel color and has a re-usable mesh filter element.